Come ye climbers of the world, gather 'round and settle in for a story about the land of bouldering that's better than a fairytale...because it's real life in Utah. There's a remote land just 18 miles east of Orangeville, Utah that will ruin everywhere else you go--nothing will compare. Behold! We give you Joe's Valley.
It's a 15-years old guide to pretty much every bouldering area in a state which is completely stacked with boulders and see constant development. Yeah it's incomplete and doesn't have anything resembling beta, topos, descriptions,etc... but it still beats the Proj.Edit: the pic of Ibex which the OP posted is a good example. Good luck finding your way around Candyland in Ibex with your iPhone.
Are you talking about specifically for Joes Valley? The Joes Valley portion is ok but remember that between the time this printed and now, there's been a massive amount of development in Joes. Joes itself needs a few more years of development and then someone to come create a guidebook specifically for it. I'd say the Joes Valley section of the black bible is a decent introduction to the area and a lot of the main easy to reach areas.
Where the Wasatch Plateau meets the high desert, Joe's Valley sits as a world-class bouldering destination. Beautifully color streaked boulders dot the landscape just east of Joe's Valley Reservoir in Central Utah's "Castle Country". With a seemingly endless supply of sandstone boulders, finger-friendly stone, short approaches, great camping and generally nice landings it is not a stretch to imagine Joe's taking its rightful place as a premier bouldering zone.
The camping in Joe's Valley is currently wild, primitive and free. There are three main spots. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up. At .9 miles you have the ever popular Man Size camp and at 2.4 the Boux area. Both of these are found on the left. The third, Fisherman's camp, is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork. These areas are well used and fire rings are built up and blown out. New rings spring up and dot the sites. Climbers are generally respectful of the area but as the popularity of bouldering and of Joe's grows, the need for a management plan becomes apparent. If you are looking for a less primitive campsite the Joe's Valley Reservoir Campground at the top of the Left Fork is open year-round and offers picnic tables, bathrooms, and fire pits.
Joe's Valley is within the watershed for Emery County; therefore environmental impacts from climbers are a potential threat to drinking water. Land managers recognize the increase use of this area and the US Forest Service has requested that the SLCA present an assessment of informal trails, disperse campsites, and bouldering recreation sites along with recommendations for planning that will advise officials governing the National Environmental Protection Act (NEPA). Through this assessment, climbers can have a greater say in the future of Joe's ensuring continued access for climbers. The American Alpine Club Cornerstone Grant is helping to fund this assessment.
Luckily, for climbers, the locals of Emery County are a welcoming group and have embraced the growing popularity of this bouldering gem in their backyard. The Food Ranch is the nearest convenience store and has much to offer the climber. Pizza, beer, fuel, and free Wi-Fi are some of the offerings. Forgot your guide book? The Food Ranch has you covered. Showers can be found in Orangeville at the community pool.
There are currently a few guidebooks to choose from:Utah Bouldering, by Wolverine PublishersA Bouldering Guide to Utah, by Baldwin, Beck, and RussoAn Insightful Guide to Joe's Valley Bouldering, by Isaac CaldieroThe Mountain Project App can also be helpful.
If you visit Utah, bring a crash pad. The state has some of the best bouldering in the America. Here's a visual tour of the best areas - Joe's Valley, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Big Bend, and Ibex. All photos are from the new guidebook Utah Bouldering, available from Rock and Run.
Chris is my buddy (and the guidebook author) so I had to include a couple of shots of him. Here he is on They Call Him Jordan V7, a explosive little number that Chris calls "the best boulder problem at Joe's Valley." Praise indeed -- many people consider Joe's to be the best bouldering area in the state.
Big Bend is a historic area (God probably bouldered here back in the day). Consequently it has some of the hardest problems - and stiffest grades in the state. The locals just love to sandbag and have the place wired. Last time I visited Noah Bigwood, (chief local and author of the Big Bend section of the guidebook - beware his grades!) was downing cans of beer in between running laps on Hellbelly, a brilliant- "V11" -- that both Klem Loskott and Fred Nicole failed to repeat.
Fortunately, halfway through my stay, two random dudes (and I do mean random) showed up in a truck. It was a relief to meet Shane and Jerry. Finally I could get a spot on the Red Monster, an amazing boulder with a 100-foot long, 25-degree overhanging wall stacked with testy highballs: Ju (V7), Blue Flowers (V7), Bruce Lee (V10), Big Gulp (V8) etc, etc. Some people consider it the best bouldering face in the USA.
The guide for Utah's West Desert and beyond, this guide is for anyone with an adventourous spirit and desire to explore. Sport, trad alpine and bouldering is covered in this guide. 360 pages. By James Garrett
St. George, Utah has become the winter destination of the west. Long known for it's abundance of quality routes, Dallas Lasley's new book now fills in the gaps for boulderers.This guide includes Pioneer Park, Moe's Valley, Garth, Super Mario Land and Anasazi.
Other times, a tall boulder will have bolts and be categorized as a sport climb. Extremely tall problems blur the line between bouldering and free soloing. Past a certain point, pads can only help so much.
Bouldering has advanced a great deal, but it retains several core attributes: short lines, powerful and demanding sequences, and a focus on dynamic movement. The concentrated difficulty of boulder problems makes it an excellent way to test and train at the physical limit. A difficult bouldering project might require multiple sessions to stick a move, or weeks to perfect sequences.
Because bouldering allows climbers to work near their limits, technique and mentality are crucial. Even climbers who prefer to rope up can benefit from training on boulders. The relative simplicity of the equipment has made bouldering a popular and accessible form of climbing.
Spotting requires standing below a climber while they move, ready to guide their fall should it be necessary. A spotter can help prevent climbers from landing on unsafe terrain or from falling in a position likely to cause injury.
There are many outfitters permitted by the BLM to conduct commercial tours for many activities including river trips and hunting excursions. These experienced guides can help jumpstart your adventure into the outdoors.
The "Moab Daily" is a popular 13-mile section of the Colorado River that runs from Hittle Bottom Recreation Area to Take Out Boat Ramp and parallels state Route 128. This stretch features easy boater access, close proximity to the city of Moab, moderate rapids, and wonderful scenery. Depending on water levels, rapids on this section range from Class I to Class III. No permits are required for private trips. There are a number of commercial outfitters who have permits from the Moab BLM Field Office to offer guided trips on this section of the river. There are also a number of companies that offer shuttles to various put in and take out locations.
First things first, decide what kind of climbing you want to do. Most beginners start out with bouldering or top-roping. Bouldering is climbing short sections, usually a boulder, without a rope. It requires less gear (no ropes or harnesses) and is great if you're afraid of heights. Top-roping is climbing with a rope tied to a climber then threaded through a bolt at the top of a route, then down to a person holding the rope, or belayer. Top-roping involves rappelling, or descending with the rope, which is possibly the most fun part of climbing.
Traditionally, Capitol Reef National Park has experienced minimal use by technical rock climbers and boulderers. However, recent years have seen an increase in climbing in Utah's canyon country. Included here are the park regulations and concerns regarding technical climbing and bouldering.
Permits are required for climbing and bouldering. Free day-use permits can be obtained in person at the visitor center or via email. Please review all rules and regulations prior to filling out or requesting a permit. A separate permit is required for each climbing zone and for each day.Email firstname.lastname@example.org for a climbing or bouldering permit. If climbing for multiple days, submit a separate email for each day. Use the following format:Subject: Name of climbing zone and date you will be climbing.Email Body:
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